"RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht" (ramblininexile)
03/12/2019 at 21:36 • Filed to: None
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"RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht" (ramblininexile)
03/12/2019 at 21:36 • Filed to: None | 1
| 13 |
I got this yesterday. For a dual brake conversion on a Series Land Rover that’s getting a Benz turbo five swap.
Nibby
> RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
03/12/2019 at 21:48 |
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buy this and it’ll be a summit purchase
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RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
> Nibby
03/12/2019 at 21:51 |
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Okay but why would I buy that if I can make a turbodiesel land rover that has power brakes instead
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Nibby
> RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
03/12/2019 at 21:54 |
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ok fine do that and give the rest of the money you were going to use for the WK2 Summit to me
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RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
> Nibby
03/12/2019 at 22:00 |
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no.
well okay maybe.
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Nibby
> RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
03/12/2019 at 22:17 |
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yay thanks <3
Liam Farrell
> RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
03/12/2019 at 22:47 |
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OM617?
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RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
> Liam Farrell
03/13/2019 at 00:00 |
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Yep. A 109 five door, receiving a ~'79 om617 heart transplant from a sonderklasse donor.
AuthiCooper1300
> RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
03/13/2019 at 06:29 |
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RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
> AuthiCooper1300
03/13/2019 at 09:55 |
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Since the 109 has the larger size of drums already, we’re actually going to be using those. However, if you’re curious, I do know some things about the Series disc brake options. Read on...
The “commonly known
easiest” option is an axle swap, but a straight-up swap to other axles is dependent on getting other axles from a donor, and has the complication that both Range Rover and 90/110 axles have some size and mount point differences. For all that’s involved, and the fact that Rangie axles are wider and don’t clear into the fenders quite right, using axles from a Jeep (gasp!) is not necessarily worse. Either option, however, gets you away from the weak early Series rear axle shafts and the very low gear ratio - something of a plus.
The actual easiest way in terms of bolt-up
is also quite an expensive way - there’s a group out there that were or are selling a replacement outer swivel housing casting that allows for Range Rover front calipers, at which point you just use Range Rover hubs, axle stubs, and some brackets on the back for rear calipers, and ta-da! homogeneous brake system on the old housings. I’m sure you can imagine that the castings are spendy, though - and unfortunately, the swivel housings from a Range Rover have a different interface than the Series ones, so even with shafts the right length, it wouldn’t work to carry over the whole unit. Not without a machined adapter *and* custom shafts.
Any of the above, unfortunately, suffer from being tied to Range Rover style discs that mount to the hubs from the back - a “captive” design. There would be a temptation to machine down the hub around its periphery until it fit the inside of Genuine or quality Bearmach replacements reliably, and to use centering sleeves or something with the rotors on the outside of the hub... but that’s a very deep well I haven’t looked at climbing down.
As it is, the reason custom castings are required for Rangie front discs and hubs in the first place is that the Rangie fronts are a hollow-core design that (with the captive feature) puts the rotor very close to the plane that the axle stub is mounted on. There’s no room for a caliper behind it.
One could always go for a mild disc conversion or conversion to disc/drum, for which conversion you’d use the rear style disc on the front. Solid rather than hollow-core, so you have better spacing to work with, and available drilled and slotted, so not that much of an overheat danger. Whether this would involve rear calipers on front or something like a GM a-body caliper up front and Range Rover calipers on back, it would depend. This is something I’ve done some research into, and would probably do if motivated, but it’s not fully worked out.
Like I was saying, though - for this project, we’re going with original long wheelbase bigger drums, converting to dual circuit, and resolving the gear ratio/axle shaft question by using Range Rover gear carriers with different ratio
and beefier rear shafts.
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AuthiCooper1300
> RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
03/13/2019 at 10:10 |
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Try finding some Land Rover Santana “Cazorla” (109" six-cylinder) front brakes. Old Santana products were basically Series Land Rovers, so they should just bolt-on (they certainly did on my 86" - no, the car is not on the road yet, sorry I cannot give you feedback). I think the same brakes were also used in later Santana cars (also based on LR hardware, but not LR-branded anymore).
There is also a small Spanish FWD Mercedes-Benz van (MB100) which had the same calipers (or very similar ones). This guy in the Netherlands used to sell them but it seems now he has engineered his own kit:
http://www.heystee-automotive.com/parts/dicsbrks/disc.htm
Edit: stupid as this may sound, for the life of me I am unable to remember if the Cazorla discs were vented. Sorry.
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RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
> AuthiCooper1300
03/13/2019 at 10:22 |
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Yeah, I think Heystee was who I was thinking of with regard to the custom swivel housing castings. But like I said, despite having a full set of Range Rover hubs and other parts on the shelf, and having done some preparatory research, I’m not really that crazy about trying to build a set of discs right now. A quick search indicates that the two-piston Cazorla front calipers have been available from a number of suppliers in Europe, but are showing as out of stock... but they’re a Girling part number, might be easier to look up that way.
It’s long been a possibility to try to get a whole Santana through family
connections in Costa Rica, but we never have really tried too hard.
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Liam Farrell
> RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
03/13/2019 at 14:47 |
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Are you keeping the trans and transfer case? I’ve been interested in doing a swap, possibly a 200 or 300 tdi eventually.
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RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
> Liam Farrell
03/13/2019 at 15:21 |
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Yes to both, although to be precise we’ll be rebuilding both from spares as C or D suffix (depending what we have most spares for) , rather than A, as they were when we got the vehicle. Improved first gear ratio and improved t-case intermediate shaft oiling are both very significant things.
The OM617 doesn’t develop ludicrous torque numbers, but does rev higher and with a little less vibration shock - so as long as he doesn’t drive like a maniac, it won’t destroy anything. There is a complete set of parts required to make it happen, from an aluminum adapter ring to a custom
flywheel to a starter adapting plate to a low-profile Toyota starter, and some changes to the oil pan, thermostat housing, and some other parts required. There’s a guy out there who makes the parts or used to from whom we bought the intermediate kit - ring, plate, flywheel, starter.